San Nicolas de los Servitas (plan several hours for this section). Then go shopping at Calle Serrano and the Gran Via. Visit the Victory Arch, the Palacio Real (the royal palace with its own art treasures and crown jewels) and the Plaza de las Cibeles and Puerta del Sol (the last two are major intersections with fountains, monuments and shops). On sunday, you must visit the Rastro Flea Market, located in La Latina, there you will find the Madrileño's real essence!

Madrid is a museum-goer's paradise. Including the Royal Palace, it has 15 important museums, dozens of galleries and several private collections. See the section on the art walk for more details about the three famous museums in Madrid: the Prado, the Thyssen Bornemisza and the Reina Sofia museum. You might end up spending more than one day just seeing museums. Actually, days could be spent in the halls of the Prado alone.

It's actually quite possible to get tired of all these museums in Madrid; if this happens sit down at a terraza (outdoor cafe) and watch the world go by or visit one of the many beautiful parks and lakes in the city. One of the nicest parks we've seen anywhere is Retiro Park near the Prado. Note the Victorian greenhouse and the Crystal Palace with its small lake and swans lazily swimming about. You can rent a rowboat to get in the relaxed festive mood that suffuses the park. For a panoramic view of Madrid take the elevator to the bar on the 26th floor of the Edificio de Espana which faces the Plaza de Espana.

Madrid is a city that never seems to close down, bars and restaurants are open very late and the city's Santa Ana district never closes down. Dinner doesn't usually begin until after 10 pm and after that revelers head off to their favorite disco show, jazz club or late-night cafe to party until dawn. For a concentrated area of late-night activity head to Huertas Street after midnight and you're sure to find something to match your tastes. Hemingway fans may want to check out the Museo Chicote bar described in many of his Spanish Civil War stories (and a very trendy spot). Those who love traditional performing arts will want to go to the Teatro Real for Spanish light opera known as zarzuela. You can also find good flamenco shows in several nightclubs including Cafe Chinitas.

If you're in Madrid during the second half of May be sure to join Madrileños in celebrating the Feria de San Isidro which has music, operas, concerts, bullfighting, dancing and all-night entertainment. During our last trip, we attended a concert devoted to American bluegrass music held in the Plaza Mayor. And mid August is when the city celebrates the Verbena de la Paloma. Outside of Madrid day trips can be made to Avila, El Escorial, Guadalajara, Segovia and Toledo.